The 30 day Ama Dablam Expedition starts from Lukla. You will trek through Namche Bazar, Tyangboche, Ama Dablam base camp where you will prepare for the expedition. While trekking to the base camp, you will enjoy the Sherpa culture and hospitality.
Ama Dablam is perhaps one of the beautiful and prettiest mountains there is. Located just 12 km away from Mt. Everest, Ama Dablam Peak is 6812m tall with soaring ridgelines and steep faces.
In Sherpa language Ama Dablam means “mother’s necklace” and is also popularly known as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas. Climbing Ama Dablam is economically viable as compared to other mountains but equally thrilling and adventurous.
The members of the first expedition team to climb Ama Dablam successfully were Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK) and Wally Romanes (NZ). They climbed it on 13 March 1961 via the Southwest Ridge.
Ama Dablam can be climbed either through Southwest Ridge or North Ridge though Southwest Ridge is usually the most preferred route. The base camp is prepared at the height of 5800m where you will spend a day acclimatizing and learning glacier walking and rope fixing. A total of three camps is set up on the approach to the peak. Much of the trail up consist walking through ice, ridges and rocks.
The challenges climbers often face when reaching the peak include blizzards, steep seracs and ice falling off. Once you reach the summit you will enjoy a panorama of mountains all around you. Among others, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, Island Peak are clearly visible. The total duration for climbing Ama Dablam peak is about 30 days which involves trekking through Lukla, Namche, Pangboche, where you can enjoy Sherpa culture and hospitality as well as natural wildlife and biodiversity.
The best season to climb Ama Dablam is either during Spring (March, April, May) or Autumn (September, October, November).
Those interested for Ama Dablam expedition should have some experience of climbing and know the basics of mountaineering at least. However, Nepal Environmental Treks & Expedition has a team of experienced Sherpas who have already climbed Ama Dablam and equally experienced guides and porters to help you achieve your goal. We will arrange all climbing and trekking permits and make provision for necessary expedition logistics.
There are no fixed departures available right now
Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla takes approximately 30 minutes and then trek to Phakding. Early in the morning you will be driven from your hotel to the Kathmandu airport, after a 30 minute spectacular flight you will land at Lukla airport (2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding (2652m.) and walk for about two and a half to three hours. While trekking you head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding (2652m.) Stay overnight at a lodge in Phakding.
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) takes about 5 to 5 and a half hours. This day you trek and cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo(2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the views of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri and Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries trekking along the way to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and excursion around the places. It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by the late Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for outstanding views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. There are also good views from the National Park Center and Museum just above the town. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) which takes almost 5 hours. From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. From here, you can catch a glimpse of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, the trail descends steeply to a bridge over the river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.).The village has an excellent place for lunch and you can take a short rest before making the steep climb to Tyangboche. Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche.
Trek from Tyanboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
Climbing period for Ama Dablam. Stay overnight at camp.
Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.
To yak camp (5400 m): Yaks carry most of our equipment for this section, which saves three to four hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which we and the yaks use.
To camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp is only one and a half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.
Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now, you begin your climb. This route mostly involves rock climbing. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you will be grateful for the fixed ropes in place. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spots of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform, this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here, it would probably land in base camp!
Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now, for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route we follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.
Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge.
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) which takes about four hours. The trail descends steeply for early one and a half hours. After that, the path has small ups and downs to Phakding through Monjo. Stay overnight at lodge.
Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) which takes about three hours. Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Koshi back down to Lukla. Stay overnight at lodge.
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Fly out from Kathmandu.
Crampons, Ice axe, Helmet, Harness, Lock and unlock Carabineers, Shovel, Climbing pack, Rope, Ski poles, Desender/abseil device, Jummer (Asender), Tapes, Prusik Loops, Rappel device, Hand Warmer (if possible)
Clothing and Wears
Trekking shoes with spare laces, Mountaineering Boots, Plastic or leather for mountaineering boots, Gore-Tex pants, Long shorts, Insulated Parka, Jumper, Waterproof Jackets, Down Jacket, Fleece Vest, Wool cap, Neck Gaiter, Gloves, Climbing Socks, Thermal Underwear, Sandals, Snow Goggle
Backpack, Duffle bag, Sleeping Bag, sleeping pad, Tents
Map, Compass, Camera, GPS, Two way radios, Binoculars, Head Lamp, Flashlight
Sun Protection Items
Sun glasses, sun scream, Lip balm,
First aid Kit (Brufen / Ibuprofens, Antibiotic, Diamox, Paracetamol, Handy Plaster, Crack Bandage, Tincture Iodine, etc.)
Energy Bars, Water bottle, Water Purification Tablets, Toiletries, Trekking poles, Pocket knife, raincoat, Satellite Phone, Altimeter